Top 18 Steps/Ways to Boost Onion Yield: How to Increase Production, Size, and Quality

Onions are amazingly easy to grow. Onion is a high-yielding crop. Onion (Allium cepa L.), also called bulb Onion or common Onion, is a vegetable that is the most cultivated variety of the Allium genus. Let’s check out the top 18 steps/ways to boost Onion yield below.

Top 18 steps/ways to boost Onion yield

Step 1: Select the best varieties of Onions for higher yield and profit

Top varieties of Onions are Pusa Red, Pusa Ratnar, Hisar – 2, Pusa White Flat, Pusa Madhvi, Bhima Raj, Bhima Super, Bhima Kiran, Bhima Shweta, Akra Pragati, etc.

Step 2: Selection of quality Onion seeds for good production

Several varieties of Onions are generally grown for commercial purposes. The type of cultivation depends on the type of seed. Some popular Onions include Nasik Red, Prerana, XP Red Onion, Gulmohar, Prema Onion, and Marshall Onion. However, the best-selling varieties of Onion in recent times are Ganga Putra and Ganga Prabha. It is also important to prioritize high-quality seeds to get better yields.

Mahyco seeds, Kaveri seeds, Nuziveedu seeds, Rasi seeds, Krishna Sandhan seeds, Bayer and Syngenta seeds are some of the top seed companies that provide high-quality seeds. The largest varieties of Onions include Ailsa Craig, Expression, Kelsae, Rossa di Milano, Scout, Sierra Blanca, T-448, Walla Walla, Yellow Granex, and Zoey. With proper care, these Onions can grow up to 4 to 6 inches in diameter and weigh up to a pound or more.

Step 3: Soil management for high Onion growth

Onions can be grown extensively in clay, loamy and heavy soils. Ideally, Onions grow well in red to black clay soils with good drainage capacity. The best soil for Onion crops is deep, greasy loam, moisture retention, and burnt soil with sufficient organic matter. The Onion crop can be successfully grown on heavy soils using organic fertilizer before planting, and the field must be well prepared for Onion farming. Regardless of the soil type, the optimum pH range is 6.0-7.5, but Onions can also be grown in light, alkaline soils.

Step 4: Onion planting method for more plant growth

Planting Onion sets rather than seeds, simply because the sets are quick to set up and easy to plant. Onion sets are small Onions that ripen in about 14 weeks. They can withstand mild frostbite and have a higher success rate than directly sown seeds or transplants. In general, Onion sets look like small bulbs and are sold at gardening stores. Once they mature, they take on the shape of a full-size bulb.

Choose Onion sets with bulbs 3/4 inch in diameter. Adults develop stiff necks and go into seed. Of course, starting Onions from seed is feasible and may be necessary for colder regions (Zone 5 and above). Seeded Onions need at least 10°C of soil to grow, so they should be started indoors about six weeks before transplanting.

Step 5: Sowing time for getting more high-quality Onions

Onion is sown from June-July to October-November as the Kharif season crop. In contrast, from November-December to April as the Rabi season crop, Onion is sown as a summer crop from January-February.

In case you missed it: Fertilizer Management for Onion: NPK Ratio, and Micronutrients

Step 6: The easiest way to fertilize Onions for crop development

Onions are heavy feeders with shallow root systems, so proper soil fertilization is essential for high yields of high-quality Onions. Adequate soil fertility is especially important in areas where the length of the day should be reduced to allow the Onion to grow faster before it becomes a bulb. Different fertility requirements will allow you to easily provide Onions with the nutrients they need.

Onions need timely nutrient utilization for maximum growth and productivity of plants. Choose the fertilizer type and rate to ensure that all the important nutrients are sufficient for high yields. High-quality Onions and the best fertilizer are essential for production. Onions need moderate nitrogen, but nitrogen fertilization is still important because Onions have weak, shallow root systems.

Decaying organic matter provides some nitrogen, so as your soil organic matter increases, your nitrogen requirements will decrease. For Onions grown in moderately organic soil, use 5 1/4 ounces of applied nitrogen per 100 square feet of growing space. You can provide this amount of nitrogen with 4.7 pounds of cotton seed meal, 2.7 pounds of blood meal, or 3.3 pounds of commercial 10-10-10 fertilizer.

Nitrogen is a major component of various amino acids and proteins important for the protoplasmic constitution, its function, cell division, growth, and photosynthetic activity. Nitrogen fertilizers always increase Onion production. Onions are relatively high in potassium and phosphorus.

Fertilizers provide these nutrients to crops in the form of potash and phosphate. Apply about 2.2 ounces of phosphate and 4.8 ounces of potash per 100 square feet. You can provide adequate amounts of these nutrients with 3 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer or 1.1 pounds of the bone meal plus 6 pounds of hardwood ash.

Step 7: Factors for maximum growth and productivity of Onion plants

Plant density and spacing are essential to determine the size and number of Onion bulbs. Yields are higher where the early leaf cover is prepared and maintained for long before the bulb is formed. Onions have relatively low nutrient efficiency due to their shallow root system with short, short-hairy thick roots. S, it is important to implement a fertilizer program according to these conditions to help achieve maximum yield. Nutrients must be used as frequently and readily available as possible in the root zone.

Step 8: Crop rotation to maximize yield

Being a shallow-rooted crop, efficient and maximum utilization of all the soil minerals is impossible. Unused nutrients will come out of the bottom and settle in the subsoil. Planting legumes in the next growing season will ensure the use of these nutrients. Thus, it is recommended to cultivate Onions and beans to maintain soil health, maximize nutrient utilization and maximize yields.

Step 9: Irrigation management to improve bulb yield

The need for irrigation for Onion cultivation depends on various factors, including weather, soil type, irrigation method, and crop age. When the Onion crop reaches maturity (10-15 days before harvest) and begins to fall, irrigation should be stopped, which helps reduce rot during storage.

Modern irrigation techniques such as drip and micro-sprinkler irrigation help save irrigation water and significantly improve bulb production. The Onion crop needs water or moisture to survive and grow. Irrigation for Onion crops starts immediately after planting or sowing and three days after planting or sowing. Then Onions need to be watered periodically to provide adequate moisture for growth and development.

In case you missed it: How To Start Onion Farming, Questions, Answers

A sudden supply of irrigation to the Onion crop can cause the bulbs to burst and reduce the quality of the crop. The Onion crop should be stopped ten days before the last irrigation. Recent irrigation techniques such as spraying and drip can be adapted to provide adequate water to the Onion crop as it will help maintain the required moisture level in the soil.

Step 10: Tips to get big Onions

Fertilize with nitrogen every few weeks to get larger bulbs. Stop fertilizing when the Onions push the soil, and the bulbing process starts. Do not put the soil around the Onion; the bulb needs to rise above the soil. Onion crops are heavy feeders and need constant nutrition to produce large bulbs. Apply nitrogen fertilizer when planting. Many organic gardeners will apply an inch of fertilizer under each row before planting. Or, dig a trench about 2 inches deep and 3 inches wide in the soil, and then fill the trench with about an inch of compost.

Feed your Onions a lot of nitrogen to increase the size of the bulb. Since it is a root vegetable, many people think that Onions need a lot of phosphorus; however, nitrogen is your key nutrient to increase the number of Onions. Each leaf that produces an Onion plant means an extra ring on the Onion. In other words, the more plant leaves, the bigger the Onion bulbs.

For getting bigger Onions, avoid Onion sets and start with seeds. Growing Onion sets can be easy because they have already begun, but when it comes to growing large bulbs, Onion growing from seed is the only way to get the size you want.

Step 11: How to increase the size of the Onion bulb

Plant density is a very important administrative factor in determining the size of bulbs in Onion crops. However, good crop nutrition can help farmers achieve the desired diameter. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur are essential for good Onion bulb size. Nitrogen increases leaf area and bulb size – the maximum nitrogen supply is important for Onion size. Nitrogen helps produce leaves and therefore increases the number of Onion bulb scales and the size of the cut bulb.

Because these crops have shallow roots with defective roots, it is common practice to use split nitrogen applications to the maximum. Then, positioning has proven to be more effective than broadcasting. Calcium nitrate is the effective nitrogen source – Trials with calcium nitrate confirm that it is the most efficient form of nitrogen for high yields. It is also the most effective formulation for increasing the size of Onion bulbs.

In case you missed it: Growing Spring Onions – Farming Tips, Ideas, Secrets

Phosphorus allows an increase in the size of the bulb – it is important to have enough phosphorus available to balance the potential storage losses resulting from a high N application rate. It can be used in such a way as to ensure high yields through high nitrogen rates, yet at the same time, there is a slight deterioration in crop quality.

Trials with calcium nitrate confirm that it is the most effective form of nitrogen for higher yields and larger bulbs. Potassium deficiency will reduce Onion production – Onions respond well to potassium, limiting production if limited and better use of nitrogen is allowed.

Step 12: Thin plants for healthy growth

When Onions compete for sunlight, water, and nutrients, they often fail to produce leaves because they need to grow large bulbs. Each leaf of Onion is equal to a ring on a bulb, so a large number of healthy leaves means a big Onion. If Onions are planted too close, they will compete, resulting in smaller bulbs. Whether it is direct sowing, planting, or Onion sets, Onions should be spaced 3-4 inches apart for maximum growth.

Step 13: Weed control to maximize crop growth

Onions have very shallow root systems, making them a weak competitor to neighboring herbs. The purpose is to keep the soil around the Onion free from weeds by mulching it with a thick layer of grass clippings, cut leaves, or clean straw. Repeated shallow cultivation between rows of Onions can also be useful. Simple hand tools are often needed; be careful not to disturb the Onion plants. Shallow root systems will break out of the soil with a little provocation, especially when young.

Step 14: Folding Onion stems for bigger bulbs

Folding Onion stems at the end of summer accelerates the ripening of the bulbs but does not necessarily produce large bulbs. Folding the stems reduces the water that can travel upwards from the bulb, causing water to form as the roots continue to feed the plant. As water forms, it fills the cells in the bulb, spreading faster than leaving them on their own devices.

Although technically, it will not increase the overall size of the bulbs, it will accelerate their growth once they are fully formed, and the plant will often do this on its own in strong autumn winds because the leaves also begin to weaken. Another advantage of folding the leaves is that it produces bulbs that dry more efficiently and last longer.

In case you missed it: Hydroponic Onion Farming – Growing Guide

Step 15: Problems and their control for growing Onion plants

The main problems growing onions may include stunted growth due to poor soil, pests, Onion diseases, bad weather conditions, colorless leaves, withered or withered plants, and poor shape.

The leaves fade, wilt, and turn yellow; the leaf tips turn brown – Tunnels and cavities in the bulb; the plant may die. Destroy damaged plants after harvesting. Destroy flies during the growing season.

The leaves turn yellow and wilt; leaf tips die back – Seedlings thicken and become deformed. The base of the bulb is swollen. Nematodes of stem and bulb insects are microscopic insect-like animals living in water encircle soil particles. They enter the roots of plants and emit a toxic substance. Do not plant Onions in locations where Onions, garlic, leeks, or chives have grown in previous years. Parsley and celery are also hosts. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Use certified seed.

The leaves are yellow; the bulbs are soft, watery rot, decay; bulbs can be dark spots. Bulb rot, also known as white rot, is a fungal disease caused by soil. Remove and destroy infected Onion plants. Rotate crops. Plant Resistance Types: Elba, Globe, Grandee, Hickory.

Step 16: Pests and diseases control for more plant development

Insects can be a major problem in Onion production. Onion maggots and thrips have the potential to reduce or destroy crops in any year. Allium Leaf Miner is a new invasive worm increasingly found in Onions. Monitoring insect populations will help you determine when to use pesticides and how often to spray.

Numerous diseases of Onions can cause crop damage, especially bottom mildew, purple spots, and white rot. Many diseases can be prevented using good crop circulation systems, high-quality soil with good ventilation, and disease-resistant Onion varieties. Many pesticides needed to grow Onions are used sparingly and require a pesticide license to purchase.

Pesticide application tests are usually conducted in extension offices. When using any pesticide in your enterprise, remember to follow all label recommendations regarding application rates and personal safety equipment requirements. Also, remember that worker safety standards apply to both owners and employees.

Step 17: Harvesting tips for more Onion growth and getting more yield

Bulbs Onion harvesting can begin when the top of the Onion falls off naturally and turns brown. When the Onions reach usable size, they are ready for harvesting. However, for storage, your signal to start the pruning process is when the leaves begin to bend or turn brown at the edges.

The Onion bulb is ready for harvest in 3 to 4 months after transplanting. The falling neck is an important maturity index for Onion harvesting. The best time to harvest Onions is to check if the tops are broken by 60%. Harvesting is done by removing the plants when the tops fall and are still green.

In case you missed it: Onion Seed Germination, Time, Temperature, Procedure

Step 18: Onion yield per acre

Yield is higher when the early leaves are covered, and the fields are maintained long before the bulbs are formed. Generally, the Kharif season yields up to 80-100 quintals per acre and the rabi season yields up to 120-140 quintals per acre. Most dry Onions are usually harvested when one-third to one-half of the tops fall off.

Bulbs are usually removed from the soil after being loosened with a disc. Then they are about 1 inch above the bulb. To prevent rotting organisms from entering the bulb, Onions must be properly treated in the field, in open shade, or by artificial means before storing. Depending on the weather, curing may take two to four weeks.

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